Tfroi^as  J.  M  urre  y, 


50  Salads 


COPYRIGHT,  ISX5.   BY 
WH  FTE:  ,  STOKES,  &  ALLEN,  PUBLISHERS,    NEW 


GIFT  OF 


BREAKFAST    DAINTIES 


THOMAS  J.  MURREY 

'Author  of  "Fifty  Soufis,"  "Fifty  Salads,"  "Valuable  Cooking 

Recipes?*  etc.     Formerly  Professional  Caterer  of  the 

As  tor  House,  New  York,  etc. 


14  Now  good  digestion  wait  on  appetite 
And  health  on  both."— SHAKESPEARE 


NEW  YORK 

WHITE,  STOKES,  &   ALLEN 
PUBLISHERS 


COPYRIGHT,  1885, 
BY  WHITE,  STOKES,  fc  ALLEN. 


DEDICATION. 

To 
My  Friend,  Frank  B.  Thurber, 

Whose  efforts  to   raise    the  standard  of 
our  food  products  to  a  higher  order 
have  been   untiring,    this  unpre- 
tentious    work     is     most 
respectfully  dedicated 

by 
THE    AUTHOR. 


4389 15 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


REMARKS  ON  BREAKFAST  COOK- 
ERY,           .  .9 

FRUITS. 

APPLES,  BAKED,  .                                  n 

BANANAS,            .  .                         •  TI 

BLACKBERRIES,  RASPBERRIES,  ETC.,          n 

CANTALOUPES,  .                                   1 1 

CHERRIES,            .  •  I2 

CURRANTS,   .  I2 

FIGS  AND  DATES,  .   12 

GRAPES,        .  I2 

MELONS,  •  T3 

ORANGES,     .  J3 

PEACHES,             .  •  J3 

PEARS,           .  13 

PINEAPPLES,        .  •  J4 

PLUMS,          .  .                                   *4 

STRAWBERRIES,  .  •   J4 

MISCELLANEOUS,  .                                   J4 

BEVERAGES. 

COFFEE,  .            .  .                         •   J5 

"AFTER  DINNER"  COFFEE,                        17 

BOILING  WATER  FOR  COFFEE,  .   18 


tq&TENTS. 

PACK 

TEA,.  18 

COCOA  AND  CHOCOLATE,  .            .  18 

BREAD,  ETC. 

BREAD,    .            .            .  .            .20 

"HOME-MADE"  BREAD  AND  ROLLS,        23 
SALT,             ....          23 

MAIZE,  OR  INDIAN  CORN,  .            .  24 

CORN  BREAD,           .            .  .          25 

CORN  MEAL  CUSTARD,  .            .  25 

"BOSTON  BROWN  BREAD,"  .          26 

MAIZE  MUFFINS,             .-  .            .  26 

GRAHAM  MUFFINS,           .    .  .          27 

BREAKFAST  BISCUIT,     .  ,            .27 

MILK  BREAD,           .            *  .          27 

ROLLED  WHEAT  BISCUIT,  ,            .  28 

To  TEST  THE  OVEN,          .  .          28 

TOAST. 

DRY  TOAST,       .            ,    '  .            .  29 

DIP  TOAST,              .            .  .          29 

MILK  TOAST,      .            .  .            .30 
ANCHOVY  TOAST,     ...          30 

CLAM  TOAST,     .            .  .            .30 

MARROW  BONE  TOAST,       .  .         30 

OYSTER  TOAST,              .  .            .31 

SALMON  TOAST,       .            .  .31 

TONGUE  TOAST,              .  .            .31 


CONTENTS.  7 

EGGS   AND   OMELETS. 

PAGE 

To  TEST  EGGS,       ...  32 

BAKED  EGGS,      .            .            •  .32 

OMELETS,      ....  32 

CHEESE  OMELET,            .            .  .34 

OMELET  WITH  HERBS,                     .  34 

ONION  OMELET,             .            .  .34 

OYSTER  OMELET,     ...  34 

OMELETTE  AU  RHUM,  .            .  .35 

SPANISH  OMELET,    ...  35 

SWEET  OMELET,             .            .  .36 

POTATOES. 

POTATOES  IN  GENERAL,     .            .  36 

BOILED  POTATOES,         .            .  .37 

LYONNAISE  POTATOES,        .            .  38 

POTATOES  AU  COCHON,             .  .  38 

POTATOES  AU  GRATIN,       .            .  38 

POTATOES,  SAUTEED,     .            .  .38 

MISCELLANEOUS         BREAKFAST 

DISHES. 

ARTICHOKES  (FRENCH),       .            .  39 

ARTICHOKES  (FRENCH),  FRIED,  .  39 

CHICKEN  CROQUETTES,       .            .  40 

CHICKEN,  DEVILLED,     .            .  .40 

CHICKEN,  FRIED,     ...  40 


CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CRABS,  SOFT-SHELL,  .  .  .41 
FILET  OF  SOLE  ;  SAUCE  TARTARS,  .  42 
HAMBURG  STEAK,  ...  42 
HOMINY  FRITTERS,  .  .  .43 
KIDNEY,  SAUTEED,  ...  43 
LAMB  CHOPS  WITH  FRENCH  PEAS,  .  43 
MUSHROOMS  ON  TOAST,  .  ..  45 
MUTTON  CHOPS  WITH  FRIED  TOMA- 
TOES, .  .  .  .45 
OYSTERS,  BROILED,  .  .  46 
PORK  AND  BEANS,  .  .  .46 
REED  BIRDS,  ...  48 
SALT  CODFISH,  BROILED,  .  .  49 
SARDINES,  BROILED,  .  .  49 
SAUCE  TARTARE,  .  .  .49 
SAUSAGES,  ....  50 
SMELTS,  BROILED,  .  ,  .50 
SMELTS,  FRIED,  .  .  .50 
SQUABS,  .  .  .  .  .50 
STEAK,  TENDERLOIN  ;  SAUCE  BEAR- 

NAISE,    .  .  .  .  .51 

STEAK,  SIRLOIN  ;    SAUCE  BORDELAISE,  52 
TOMATO  SAUCE,  .  .          52 

TRIPE  WITH  OYSTERS,  .  .  .53 

TRIPE,  LYONNAISE,  .  .          53 

TURKEY,  MINCED,  WITH  POACHED  EGG,  44 
VEAL  CUTLET,  SAUCE  ROBERT,    .          53 


REMARKS  ON 
BREAKFAST    COOKERY. 


*'  Dinner  may  be  pleasant, 

So  may  social  tea  ; 
But  yet  me  thinks  the  breakfast 
Is  best  of  all  the  three." 

THE  importance  of  preparing  a  variety  of 
dainty  dishes  for  the  breakfast  table  is  but 
lightly  considered  by  many  who  can  afford  lux- 
uries, quite  as  much  as  by  those  who  little 
dream  of  the  delightful,  palate-pleasing  com- 
pounds made  from  "  unconsidered  trifles." 

The  desire  of  the  average  man  is  to  remain  in 
bed  until  the  very  last  moment.  A  hurried 
breakfast  of  food  long  cooked  awaits  the  late 
riser,  who  will  not  masticate  it  properly  when  he 
finally  arrives  at  the  breakfast- table,  and  the  best 
of  housekeepers  is  discouraged  and  prevented 
from  ever  attempting  culinary  surprises,  when 
they  are  not  to  be  appreciated.  In  this  way  she 
is  innocently  driven  into  a  rut  from  which  it  is 


10   REMARKS  ON  BREAKFAST  COOKERY. 

difficult  to  escape  when  occasions  present  them- 
selves for  offering  novelties. 

The  following  recipes  and  remarks  will  be 
found  valuable  assistants  to  those  so  situated, 
and  will  offer  many  practical  suggestions  intend- 
ed to  develop  ingenuity  and  skilfulness  in  this 
much-neglected  branch  of  cookery.  Avoid  ask- 
ing that  innocent  but  often  annoying  question, 
"What  shall  we  have  for  breakfast?"  Rely 
upon  your  own  resources  and  inventiveness,  and 
you  will  soon  master  the  situation.  The  aver- 
age business  man  generally  knows  but  little  of 
what  is  or  is  not  in  market,  and  he  dislikes  to 
have  his  gastronomic  knowledge  constantly 
analyzed. 

Should  your  domestic  duties  prevent  you  from 
occasionally  visiting  the  public  markets,  it  will 
be  found  expedient  to  subscribe  for  a  reliable 
newspaper  that  makes  a  specialty  of  reporting 
the  latest  gastronomic  news.  This  cannot  be 
accomplished  by  cook-books,  owing  to  the  fluc- 
tuations in  prices  and  the  constant  arrival  of 
"  good  cheer"  at  seasons  when  least  expected. 

Steaks  and  chops  are  looked  upon  as  the  sub- 
stantials  of  the  breakfast-table,  but  when  served 
continually  they  do  not  give  satisfaction,  be  they 
ever  so  good,  and  are  not  duly  appreciated  un- 
less interspersed  occasionally  with  lighter  dishes. 


BAKED    APPLES.  II 

FRUITS. 

Apples,  Baked.— Peel  and  core  six  large 
sour  apples  ;  mix  together  a  cup  of  sugar,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  ground  spice,  a  saltspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cracker 
crumbs,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  or  wa- 
ter. Fill  the  core  with  the  mixture  ;  put  the 
apples  in  a  pan,  and  bake  ;  serve  them  hot  or 
cold  with  sweetened  cream.  A  border  of  whipped 
cream  around  the  apples  may  be  substituted  for 
the  plain  cream. 

Apples  may  be  served  sliced,  covered  with 
sugar  and  a  mild  liquor  poured  over  them,  and 
topped  off  with  whipped  cream. 

Bananas.— Select  short,  thick,  red  or  yellow 
bananas  ;  peel  and  cut  them  in  quarters  length- 
wise ;  serve  on  a  napkin. 

Blackberries,  Raspberries,  Whortle- 
berries, etc.,  are  too  well  known  to  require  in- 
structions as  to  how  they  should  be  served  ;  but 
a  word  of  caution  is  necessary.  They  should 
be  very  thoroughly  examined  before  they  are 
served  ;  all  stems,  bruised  berries,  and  unripe 
fruit  should  be  removed,  and  a  thorough  search 
made  for  minute  particles  of  grit  and  for  insects. 

Cantaloupes,  or  small  melons,  should  be 


12  CHERRIES. 

placed  on  ice  the  night  preceding  their  use. 
Cut  or  slice  off  the  top  of  each  melon  ;  remove 
the  seeds,  and  replace  them  with  fine  ice  ;  re- 
place the  covers,  and  send  to  table  looking  as 
though  uncut. 

Should  they  taste  insipid,  trim  off  the  rind, 
cut  the  remainder  into  neat  pieces,  pour  over 
them  a  plain  salad-dressing,  and  they  will  be 
found  quite  palatable. 

Cherries.— If  large,  fine-looking  fruit,  serve 
them  plain  ;  but  they  must  be  cold  to  be  palat- 
able. Keep  them  on  ice  over  night,  or  serve 
glasses  of  fine  ice  to  each  guest,  with  the  fruit 
arranged  on  top  of  it 

Currants.— -Large,  fine  clusters  should  be 
served  on  the  stem,  arranged  on  a  fruit-stand 
alone,  or  in  layers  alternated  with  mulberries, 
raspberries,  or  other  seasonable  fruits.  Serve 
with  powdered  sugar. 

Figs  and  Dates  may  be  served  at  breakfast. 

Grapes.— Malaga,  Tokay,  Hamburg,  and 
similar  varieties  of  grapes  should  be  well  rinsed 
in  ice-water,  and  cut  into  small  bunches  with 
fruit  scissors.  Place  on  a  glass  dish,  or  dishes 
surrounded  by  fine  ice,  and,  if  plentiful,  do  not 
divide  the  clusters,  but  drain  them  out  of  ice- 
water.  Serve  on  a  neatly-folded  napkin,  a 
bunch  for  each  guest. 


MELONS.  IJ 

Melons.— The  best  way  to  eat  melons  is  un- 
questionably with  a  little  salt ;  they  should  be 
kept  over  night  in  an  ice-box  and  served  at  the 
following  breakfast  ;  but  melons  are  very  de- 
ceptive ;  they  may  look  delicious,  but,  from 
growing  in  or  near  the  same  garden  where 
squashes  and  pumpkins  are  raised,  they  often 
taste  as  insipid  as  these  vegetables  would  if  eaten 
raw.  In  this  case  they  are  made  very  palatable 
by  cutting  the  edible  part  into  slices,  and  serv- 
ing them  with  plain  dressing  of  oil,  vinegar, 
pepper,  and  salt 

Oranges.— Of  the  many  ways  of  serving 
oranges,  I  prefer  them  sliced.  If  in  summer, 
keep  them  cold  until  wanted.  Remove  all 
seeds,  and  cut  large  slices  in  two.  Mandarins  are 
served  whole,  with  the  peel  scored  but  not  re- 
moved. 

Peaches.— If  the  peaches  are  large  and  per- 
fect do  not  slice  them,  but  serve  them  whole  ; 
wipe  or  brush  off  the  feathery  coating,  arrange 
them  neatly  on  the  fruit-dish,  and  decorate 
them  with  fresh  green  leaves  and  flowers. 

Sliced  peaches  turn  a  rusty  brown  color  if 
allowed  to  stand  after  cutting  them.  Should 
this  occur,  cover  them  with  whipped  cream 
properly  sweetened. 

Fears.— Fine-flavored  pears  should  ba  served 


14  PINEAPPLES. 

whole  ;  inferior  pears,  sliced  and  dredged  with 
sugar  ;  they  are  acceptable  when  mixed  with 
other  fruits. 

Pineapples  are  best  served  as  a  salad.  Pare 
and  dig  out  the  eyes  ;  take  hold  of  the  crown  of 
the  pine  with  the  left  hand  ;  take  a  fork  in  the 
right  hand,  and  with  it  tear  the  pine  into  shreds, 
until  the  core  is  reached,  which  throw  away. 
Arrange  the  shredded  fruit  lightly  in  a  compote, 
add  a  liberal  quantity  of  powdered  sugar,  a  wine- 
glassful  of  Cura9oa,  and  half  a  wine-glassful  of 
brandy. 

Alternate  layers  of  shredded  pineapple  and 
fresh  cocoanut  served  with  a  sauce  of  orange 
juice,  seasoned  with  sugar  and  liquors,  is  excel- 
lent. 

Plums  are  too  often  picked  before  they  are 
quite  ripe,  which  prevents  them  from  becoming 
popular  as  a  breakfast  fruit  ;  this  is  true  of 
Apricots  also. 

Strawberries  are  often  objectionable,  ow- 
ing to  grit ;  wash,  or  rather  rinse  them  in  water, 
drain  on  a  napkin,  and  serve  with  vanilla- 
flavored  whipped  cream  for  a  change. 

Nearly  all  tropical  fruits  that  are  imported  are 
excellent  breakfast  fruits,  such  as  the  alligator 
pear,  Lechosa  prickly  pear,  pomegranate,  tropi- 
cal mango,  and  many  others. 


COFFEE.  15 

BEVERAGES. 

Coffee.— The  coffee-tree  is  a  much -branched 
tree  of  the  cinchona  family,  not  exceeding  twen- 
ty feet  in  height,  and  much  resembling  a  cherry- 
tree.  Its  pale  green  leaves  are  about  six  inches 
in  length.  The  flowers  are  in  clusters  in  the 
axils  of  the  leaves,  are  white  in  color,  resembling 
orange-tree  flowers,  and  perfume  the  air.  The 
fruit  on  ripening  turns  from  green  to  red,  and 
is  about  the  size  of  a  cherry  or  cranberry,  each 
containing  two  seeds  closely  united  by  their  flat 
sides.  These  being  removed  and  separated,  be- 
come the  coffee  of  commerce. 

"  How  to  make  good  coffee"  is  the  great 
problem  of  domestic  life.  Tastes  naturally 
differ,  and  some  prefer  a  quantity  of  chicory, 
while  to  others  the  very  name  of  this  most 
wholesome  plant  (but  keep  it  out  of  coffee)  will 
produce  nausea. 

Purchase  coffee  from  large  dealers  who  roast 
it  daily.  Have  it  ground  moderately  fine,  and 
do  not  purchase  large  quantities  at  a  time.  At 
home  keep  the  coffee  in  air-tight  jars  or  cans 
when  not  in  use. 

The  old-fashioned  coffee-pot  has  much  to 
recommend  it,  and  the  only  possible  objection 


1 6  COFFEE. 

to  it  is  that  it  makes  a  cloudy  beverage.  Those 
who  find  this  objectionable  should  use  one  of 
the  many  patented  modern  filters.  When  the 
coffee  is  finely  ground  these  filter- pots  are  the 
best  to  use.  Put  three  ounces  of  finely-ground 
coffee  in  the  top  compartment  of  the  coffee-pot ; 
pour  a  quart  of  boiling  water  over  it  ;  let  it  filter 
through  ;  add  half  a  pint  more  of  boiling  wa- 
ter ;  let  it  filter  through,  and  pour  it  out  into  a 
hot  measure,  and  pour  it  through  the  filter 
again.  Let  it  stand  a  moment  on  the  range, 
and  you  have  coffee  as  clear  as  wine  ;  but  unless 
your  pot,  measure,  and  the  water  are  very  hot, 
the  coffee  will  taste  as  though  it  had  become 
cold  and  then  ' '  warmed  over. ' '  No  eggs  or 
other  foreign  substances  are  used  to  clear  or 
settle  the  coffee. 

As  I  do  not  .object  to  a  sediment  in  my  cup, 
I  use  the  old-fashioned  coffee-pot.  I  first  heat 
the  pot,  and  put  the  coffee  into  a  loose  muslin 
bag,  and  pour  a  quart  of  boiling  water  over 
every  three  ounces  of  coffee.  I  let  it  boil,  or 
rather  come  to  a  boiling  point  a  moment ;  then 
let  it  stand  to  settle.  Should  it  not  do  so  rapidly 
enough,  I  pour  a  few  tablespoonfuls  of  cold 
water  round  the  inside  edge  of  the  coffee-pot. 
It  is  advisable  to  tie  a  thread  to  the  bag,  with 


AFTER-DINNER    COFFEE.  17 

which  it  may  be  drawn  out  of  the  coffee,  if  de- 
sired. 

Now,  heat  the  coffee  cup  ;  fill  it  one  third  full 
of  hot,  but  not  boiled,  cream  ;  then  add  the 
coffee,  and  serve. 

One  word  as  to  eggs  used  in  making  coffee. 
I  admit  that  a  different  flavor  is  produced  when 
they  are  used  ;  but  the  albumen  of  the  eggs  cov- 
ers the  coffee  grains,  and  coagulates,  preventing 
the  escape  of  the  properties  of  the  coffee,  and 
compelling  one  to  use  nearly  double  the  quan- 
tity of  coffee  to  produce  the  same  result  as  when 
eggs  are  not  used. 

Pure  Java,  if  of  a  high  order,  does  not  need 
other  brands  of  coffee  to  make  it  palatable  ; 
but,  as  a  rule,  most  of  the  coffees  sold  at  the 
grocers'  are  improved  by  blending  or  mixing 
one  third  each  of  pure  Mocha,  Java,  and  Mara- 
caibo  to  make  a  rich  cup  of  coffee,  while  a  mixt- 
ure of  two  thirds  Mandehling  Java  and  one  third 
' '  male  berry' '  (so  called)  Java  produces  excel- 
lent results.  Mexico  coffee  is  quite  acceptable, 
but  the  producers  must  clean  it  properly  if  they 
expect  to  receive  patronage. 

u  After-dinner  Coffee."— Use  three  ounces 
of  finely-ground  coffee  to  a  pint  of  boiling  water. 
Old  Government  Java  does  make  a  very  satisfac- 
tory cup  of  after-dinner  coffee.  The  after-dinner 


1 8  BOILING    WATER. 

coffee  found  at  most  of  the  first-class  restaurants 
in  New  York,  such  as  the  Brunswick,  etc.,  con- 
tains chicory. 

Boiling  Water  is  a  very  important  desider- 
atum in  the  making  of  good  coffee.  The  water 
should  be  fresh  from  the  main  pipe,  boiled  two 
or  three  minutes,  and  then  added  to  the  coffee. 
Servants  frequently  use  water  drawn  from  the 
range  boiler,  or  water  that  has  stood  long  in  the 
tea-kettle  ;  in  either  case  the  coffee  will  be  in- 
sipid. 

Tea.— The  constituents  of  tea  are  very  much 
the  same  as  those  of  coffee — theine  (an  aromatic 
oil),  sugar  and  gum,  and  a  form  of  tannic  acid. 
Green  tea  is  more  astringent  than  the  other  varie- 
ties, partly  because  it  contains  more  tannin,  and 
partly  because  it  is  sophisticated  to  adapt  it  to  a 
peculiar  taste. 

Whatever  variety  of  tea  used,  do  not  allow  the 
beverage  to  boil  ;  put  the  tea  in  a  black  earthen 
tea-pot  previously  heated  ;  pour  boiling  water 
over  it ;  let  it  draw  for  two  minutes,  and  the  proc- 
ess is  at  an  end.  Charitable  institutions  would 
find  it  advantageous  to  grind  tea  to  powder ;  in 
this  way  one  half  the  quantity  of  tea  ordinarily 
used  is  saved. 

Cocoa  and  Chocolate  are  obtained  from 
the  seeds  of  Theobroma  cacao.  The  active  prin- 


COCOA    AND    CHOCOLATE.  19 

ciple  is  theobromine,  a  substance  which  resem- 
bles the  alkaloids  of  coffee  and  tea,  except  that 
it  contains  more  nitrogen  than  theine  and 
caffeine.  Another  important  difference  between 
cacao  (not  cocoa)  and  coffee  or  tea  is  the  large 
amount  of  fat  or  cacao-butter  contained  in  the 
bean. 

The  seed  receptacle  resembles  a  large  black 
cucumber,  containing  from  ten  to  thirty  leaves, 
which  are  roasted  like  coffee.  The  husks  are 
then  taken  off,  and  are  called  cacao  shells.  The 
best  cacao  is  made  from  the  bean  after  the  husks 
are  removed. 

Chocolate  is  the  finely -ground  powder  from 
the  kernels  mixed  to  a  paste,  with  or  without 
sugar.  The  product  of  this  seed,  being  rich  in 
fatty  matters,  is  more  difficult  to  digest,  and 
many  dyspeptics  cannot  use  it  unless  the  fats 
have  been  removed,  which  is  now  done  by 
manufacturers.  Nearly  all  brands  of  cacao  and 
chocolate  are  recommended  to  be  prepared  at 
table  ;  but  it  is  much  better  to  prepare  them  be- 
fore the  meal,  and  allow  it  to  boil  at  least  once 
before  serving. 


20  BREAD. 


BREAD,    ROLLS,    £TC. 

Bread.— The  word  is  derived  from  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  bracan,  to  bruise,  to  pound,  which  is  ex- 
pressive of  the  ancient  mode  of  preparing  the 
grain.  Bread  was  not  introduced  into  Rome 
until  five  hundred  and  fifty  years  after  its  founda- 
tion. Pliny  informs  us  that  the  Romans  learned 
this,  with  many  other  improvements,  during  the 
war  with  Perseus,  King  of  Macedon.  The 
armies,  on  their  return,  brought  Grecian  bakers 
with  them  into  Italy,  who  were  called  pistores, 
from  their  ancient  practice  of  bruising  the  grain 
in  mortars. 

The  Greeks  ascribed  the  invention  of  bread- 
making  to  Pan  ;  but  the  Chaldeans  and  Egyp- 
tians were  acquainted  with  it  at  a  still  more  re- 
mote period.  In  the  paintings  discovered  in  the 
tombs  of  Egypt  the  various  processes  used  by 
them  in  bread-making  are  distinctly  represented. 

Bread  from  wheat  was  first  made  in  China, 
2000  B.C. 

An  extensive  variety  of  substances  is  used  in 
making  bread  ;  the  roots,  shoots,  bark,  flowers, 
fruits,  and  seeds  of  trees  and  plants  have  been, 
and  are  still,  made  into  bread  by  semi-civilized 


BREAD.  21 

races.  In  Iceland  codfish  is  dried  and  beaten  to 
a  powder,  and  made  into  bread. 

Bread  is  universally  admitted  to  be  a  matter 
deserving  the  serious  consideration  of  all  good 
housewives.  It  is  no  longer  a  luxury,  as  in 
olden  times,  but  a  positive  necessity  ;  upon  it 
depends  the  health  of  all  mankind.  It  is,  there- 
fore, highly  important  that  its  ingredients  should 
be  of  the  very  best  quality.  At  no  time  is  this 
question  more  seriously  to  be  considered  than 
when  changing  the  food  of  infants  from  liquids 
to  solid  food. 

Bakers'  bread  cannot  always  be  relied  upon. 
One  never  knows  to  what  extent  the  flour  has 
been  mixed  with  brands  of  flour  made  from 
musty  or  sprouted  wheat,  as  the  baker  can  make 
what  appears  to  be  good  bread  from  these  by 
mixing  them  with  what  is  known  as  garlic  flour, 
which  is  a  grade  of  flour  ground  with  garlic,  the 
effect  being  to  conceal  other  unpleasant  odors. 

Their  flour  is  often  stored  in  damp  cellars, 
where,  under  the  influence  of  heat  that  is  not 
strong  enough  to  expel  moisture,  fermentation 
takes  place  in  it,  exactly  as  it  does  in  bread- 
making,  except  on  a  smaller  scale. 

Any  flour  containing  too  much  moisture  is 
likely  to  '*  heat,"  or  sour,  and  flour  of  the  best 
quality,  when  placed  in  damp,  stuffy  cellars, 


22  BREAD. 

where  it  will  absorb  moisture,  is  likely  to  do  the 
same  thing.  The  yeast  used  by  many  bakers  is 
deserving  the  attention  of  the  Health  Department. 
Damaged  hops  are  often  used,  which,  when 
boiled  too  long,  impart  their  obnoxious  flavor 
to  the  yeast,  and  to  the  bread  made  from  it. 

If  what  is  known  as  "  head  yeast"  be  allowed 
to  ferment  too  far — as  is  often  the  case — it  will 
sour  the  stock  yeast ;  or  if  the  fermentation  be 
too  feeble,  the  result  in  either  case  will  be  un- 
healthy bread. 

Potatoes  used  in  making  "  potato  ferment" 
are  often  of  a  very  inferior  quality,  and  impart 
their  rankness  to  the  bread.  When  bread  is 
sold  by  weight  an  excess  of  water  is  introduced 
to  brands  of  dry  flour,  which  absorb  more  than 
others,  and  the  result  is  heavy,  dark,  pasty 
bread,  which  is  often  sour. 

By  the  producer  of  inferior  bread  these  little 
items  are  not  taken  into  consideration.  The 
bread  has  been  made,  and  it  must  be  sold  ;  and 
the  unsuspecting  housewife  who  buys  bread  from 
certain  bakers  because  they  sell  it  a  few  cents 
less  per  loaf  than  the  price  asked  by  firms  who 
will  not  jeopardize  their  reputations,  is  endan- 
gering the  health  of  her  family. 

I  particularly  warn  my  readers  against  bakers 
seeking  customers  by  cutting  rates  ;  they  cannot 


HOME-MADE    BREAD.  23 

supply  good   bread  at  low  rates  without  using 
inferior  flour. 

Home-made  Bread.— To  make  good  bread 
or  rolls,  take  five  potatoes  ;  peel  and  cut  them 
up,  and  boil  in  water  enough  to  cover  them  ; 
when  done,  mash  them  smooth  in  the  water  in 
which  they  were  boiled  ;  when  cool,  not  cold, 
add  a  gill  of  liquid  yeast,  a  dessert-spoonful  of 
sugar,  a  salt-tablespoonful  of  lard,  and  a  pint  of 
flour.  Mix  together  lightly  until  it  is  of  a  pasty, 
sticky  consistency  ;  cover  and  set  it  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise  ;  it  will  rise  in  two  or  three  hours, 
and  should  look  almost  like  yeast.  Stir  into 
this  three  pints  of  flour  and,  if  necessary,  a  little 
cold  water  ;  the  dough  should  be  rather  soft, 
and  need  not  be  kneaded  more  than  half  an 
hour.  Set  in  a  moderately  warm  place  for  four 
hours  ;  it  is  now  ready  to  be  shaped  into  loaves 
and  baked  ;  but  it  is  better  to  push  it  down 
from  the  sides  of  the  bread-pan,  and  let  it  rise 
again  and  again,  until  the  third  time,  which  is 
ample.  Knead  until  smooth,  and  if  too  soft, 
add  a  little  more  flour.  For  rolls,  roll  out  and 
cut  into  rounds.  Use  the  rolling-pin  slightly, 
batter,  and  fold.  Baking-pans  should  be  well 
greased. 

Salt  is  always  used    in  bread-making,   not 
only  on  account  of  its  flavor,  which  destroys  the 


24  MAIZE    OR    INDIAN    CORN. 

insipid,  raw  taste  of  the  flour,  but  because  it 
makes  the  dough  rise  better.  It  is  therefore 
highly  important  that  it  should  be  of  the  best 
quality,  as  it  has  an  affinity  for  the  kidneys  and 
other  organs,  and  acts  upon  them  powerfully. 

As  it  is  the  smallest  item  in  the  expense  of  a 
family,  no  pains  should  be  spared  in  procuring 
the  best  in  market. 

American  manufacturers  have  not  as  yet  made 
a  salt  free  from  foreign  flavors  and  suitable  to 
delicate  cookery  ;  its  peculiar  fishy  flavor  is  ob- 
jectionable, and  gives  to  bread  a  taste  that  leads 
the  eater  thereof  to  imagine  it  had  been  sliced 
with  a  fish-knife. 

Most  of  the  leading  grocers  sell  an  English 
salt  that  is  a  very  valuable  assistant  in  bread- 
making. 

Maize  or  Indian  Corn  is  the  noblest  of 
the  cereal  grasses,  and  deserves  our  liberal  pat- 
ronage and  constant  praise.  From  it  can  be 
produced  an  infinite  variety  of  nutritious  food, 
from  Tennyson's  "  dusky  loaf  that  smelt  of 
home"  to  the  simple  "hoe  cake"  of  "Old 
Black  Joe. " 

To  enumerate  all  of  the  good  things  produced 
from  com  would  make  a  volume  five  times  the 
size  of  this  little  book.  Enough  has  been  said 
to  practically  demonstrate  the  necessity  of  our 


CORN    BREAD.  25 

being  at  all  times  aware  of  its  excellent  qualities, 
if  we  value  health  and  subsequent  happiness. 

In  America  no  national  question  is  of  more 
importance  than  the  success  or  failure  of  the 
corn  crop.  Upon  it  depends  the  success  not 
only  of  large  business  enterprises,  but  of  busi- 
ness centres.  Nearly  all  of  the  important  do- 
mestic animals  that  are  used  as  food  are  fed 
upon  it  exclusively,  and  a  large  percentage  of 
the  population  depends  upon  it — directly  or  in- 
directly— for  very  existence,  which  is  conclusive 
evidence  that  a  failure  of  this  important  cereal 
means  starvation  and  bankruptcy  to  many, 
which  the  failure  of  the  wheat  crop  would  not 
effect 

Corn  Bread.— Sift  half  a  pound  each  of  corn 
meal  and  flour,  add  a  scant  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  wheat  baking  powder. 
Beat  together  one  ounce  of  powdered  sugar,  two 
eggs,  and  one  ounce  of  butter  ;  add  these  to 
the  flour  ;  then  gradually  add  nearly  a  pint  of 
milk,  to  make  a  thin  batter,  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven. 

Corn-meal  Custard.— Beat  up  three  eggs  ; 
add  to  them  a  quart  of  milk  and  an  ounce  each 
of  butter  and  sugar.  Mix  and  add  gradually  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  very  fine  corn  meal  ;  flavor 
with  nutmeg.  Pour  into  custard  cups,  and  boil 


26  BOSTON    BROWN    BREAD. 

or  steam  for  ten  minutes  ;  then  put  them  in  the 
oven  a  moment  to  brown  on  top. 

Boston  Brown  Bread.— Sift  together  half 
a  pound  each  of  rye  and  wheat  flour,  one 
pound  of  corn  meal,  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of  brown  sugar, 
and  one  of  wheat  baking  powder.  Wash,  peel, 
and  boil  two  medium -sized  potatoes  ;  rub  them 
through  a  sieve  ;  thin  out  the  potato  with  nearly 
a  pint  of  water,  and  use  this  to  make  the  batter. 
Pour  it  into  well-greased  moulds  having  covers  ; 
set  them  into  hot  water  to  within  two  inches  of 
the  top  of  the  moulds,  and  boil  for  two  hours  ; 
then  take  them  out  of  the  water,  remove  the 
cover,  and  place  them  in  the  oven  for  twenty 
minutes. 

A  Boston  brown  bread  preparation  put  up  by 
the  Boston  Cereal  Manufacturing  Company  is 
an  article  of  food  quite  recently  introduced, 
which  saves  much  of  the  difficult  details  neces- 
sary to  make  this  excellent  New  England  loaf. 

Maize  Muffins.— This  very  latest  prepara- 
tion deserves  special  mention,  as  being  the  high- 
est and  most  scientific  product  of  corn  that  has 
been  introduced  for  public  consideration.  It  is 
known  as  shredded  maize,  and  from  it  a  most 
excellent  porridge  can  be  made  in  ten  minutes. 
Griddle  cakes,  sweet  puddings,  and  especially 


GRAHAM    MUFFINS.  2J 

breakfast  rolls  made  of  it  are  delightful.  Most 
excellent  muffins  are  prepared  as  follows  :  Mix 
together  one  pound  of  shredded  maize,  one  pint 
of  hot  milk,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
ounce  of  butter  ;  let  it  cool,  and  whisk  into  it 
three  beaten  eggs,  one  ounce  of  sugar,  and  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  wheat  baking  powder  ;  mix  thor- 
oughly ;  half  fill  the  muffin- rings,  and  bake  in 
a  hot  oven. 

Graham  Muffins.— Sift  one  quart  of  gra- 
ham flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
heaping  tablespoonfui  of  wheat  baking  powder  ; 
add  two  ounces  of  butter  and  two  beaten  eggs, 
with  milk  enough  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Mix. 
Half  fill  the  greased  muffin-rings,  and  bake  in  a 
quick  oven. 

Breakfast  Biscuits.— Sift  one  quart  of 
flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  scant 
tablespoonfui  of  wheat  baking  powder  ;  add  half 
an  ounce  of  butter  ;  mix  together,  and  add  milk 
enough  to  make  a  batter  ;  roll  out  the  dough 
on  a  floured  board  ;  dredge  it  with  flour  ;  cut 
out  the  biscuits  ;  place  them  on  a  buttered  tin, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

Milk  Bread.— Sift  one  and  a  half  pounds  of 
flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  an  ounce  of 
powdered  sugar,  same  of  melted  butter,  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  wheat  baking  powder.  Sim- 


28  ROLLED-WHEAT    BISCUIT. 

mer  a  pint  of  milk  ;  let  it  cool  ;  add  it  to  the 
flour  ;  beat  it  with  a  plated  knife  ;  shape  it  into 
loaves.  Let  stand  for  half  an  hour  in  well- 
greased  pans,  covered,  then  bake  in  a  quick 
oven. 

Holled-wheat  Biscuit.— Half  a  pint  each 
of  rolled  wheat  and  flour,  one  coffeespoonful  of 
salt,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  wheat  baking  powder, 
one  tablespoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  one 
teaspoonfui  of  lard  or  melted  butter.  Add  milk 
enough  to  make  a  batter,  and  bake  in  small  tins 
in  a  quick  oven. 

To  Test  the  Oven.— Throw  on  the  floor  of 
the  oven  a  tablespoonful  of  new  flour  ;  if  it  takes 
fire  or  assumes  a  dark  brown  color,  the  temper- 
ature is  too  high,  and  the  oven  must  be  allowed 
to  cool.  If  the  flour  remains  white  after  the 
lapse  of  a  few  seconds,  the  temperature  is  too 
low.  When  the  oven  is  of  the  proper  tempera- 
ture the  flour  will  turn  a  brownish  yellow  and 
look  slightly  scorched. 


TOAST.  29 

TOAST. 

Toast  is  very  palatable  and  digestible  when 
properly  prepared.  Many  seem  to  think  that 
they  have  made  toast  when  they  brown  the  out- 
side of  a  slice  of  bread.  Have  they  ? 

The  object  in  making  toast  is  to  evaporate  all 
moisture  from  the  bread,  and  holding  a  slice 
over  the  fire  to  singe  does  not  accomplish  this  ; 
it  only  warms  the  moisture,  making  the  inside 
of  the  bread  doughy  and  decidedly  indigestible. 
The  true  way  of  preparing  it  is  to  cut  the  bread 
into  slices  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  trim  off 
all  crust,  put  the  slices  in  a  pan  or  plate,  place 
them  in  the  oven — which  must  not  be  too  hot — 
take  them  out  when  a  delicate  brown,  and  butter 
at  once. 

For  my  own  use  I  dry  all  home-made  bread 
in  this  manner. 

Dry  Toast  should  be  served  within  the  folds 
of  a  napkin  if  you  wish  to  keep  it  hot ;  toast- 
racks  allow  the  heat  to  escape,  and  they  are  not 
recommended. 

Dip  Toast.— Prepare  the  toast  as  above 
directed  ;  dip  the  edges  into  hot  water  quickly, 
and  butter  at  once.  This  is  also  called  water 
toast. 


30  MILK    TOAST. 

Milk  Toast.— Wet  the  pan  to  be  used  with 
cold  water,  which  prevents  burning.  Melt  an 
ounce  of  floured  butter  ;  whisk  into  it  a  pint  of 
hot  milk  ;  add  a  little  salt ;  simmer.  Prepare 
four  slices  of  toast ;  put  them  in  a  deep  dish 
one  at  a  time  ;  pour  a  little  of  the  milk  over 
each,  and  over  the  last  one  pour  the  remainder 
of  the  milk. 

Anchovy  Toast.— The  best  way  to  prepare 
this  appetizing  dish  is  as  follows  :  Toast  the 
bread  and  trim.*  it  neatly,  and  place  it  near  the 
range  to  keep  warm  ;  next  prepare  a  "  dip,"  as 
for  ordinary  cream  toast ;  spread  a  thin  layer  of 
anchovy  paste  on  each  slice  of  bread  ;  place  in 
a  hot,  deep  dish  ;  pour  the  prepared  cream  over 
them,  and  serve. 

Clam  Toast—Chop  up  two  dozen  small 
clams  into  fine  pieces  ;  simmer  for  thirty  min- 
utes in  hot  water  enough  to  cover  them.  Beat 
up  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  ;  add  a  little  cayenne 
and  a  gill  of  warmed  milk  ;  dissolve  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  flour  in  a  little  cold  milk  ;  simmer 
all  together  ;  pour  over  buttered  toast,  and 
serve. 

Marrow-bone  Toast.— Procure  two  beef 
shin-bones  about  six  to  eight  inches  long  ;  cover 
them  with  dough,  and  wrap  them  in  muslin  ; 
pour  hot  water  enough  to  cover  them,  and  boil 


OYSTER    TOAST.  31 

for  an  hour  and  a  half.  Remove  cloth  and 
dough  ;  shake  or  draw  out  the  marrow  with  a 
long-handled  fork  upon  slices  of  hot  toast. 
Add  salt,  cayenne,  and,  if  convenient,  a  little 
chopped  celery,  and  serve. 

Oyster  Toast.— Select  fifteen  plump  oys- 
ters ;  chop  them  fine,  and  add  salt,  pepper,  and 
a  suspicion  of  nutmeg.  Beat  up  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  with  a  gill  of  cream  ;  whisk  this  into 
the  simmering  oysters.  When  set,  pour  the 
whole  over  slices  of  buttered  toast 

Salmon  Toast.— It  very  often  occurs  that  a 
can  of  salmon  is  not  all  used  at  a  meal,  and  yet 
there  is  not  quite  enough  for  another  meal  with- 
out other  dishes  or  ingredients  added  to  it. 
Should  this  occur,  mince  the  salmon,  heat,  and 
season  it  and  serve  it  on  toast.  A  poached 
egg  added  to  it  is  quite  acceptable. 

Tongue  Toast. -A  very  nice  dish  is  pre- 
pared from  cold  boiled  or  potted  tongue.  Slice 
the  tongue,  and  cut  each  slice  into  small,  fine 
pieces  ;  heat  it  in  a  pan  with  a  little  butter.  To 
prevent  burning,  moisten  with  warm  water  or 
clear  soup  ;  add  salt  and  pepper  ;  stir  into  it 
two  beaten  eggs.  When  set,  arrange  neatly  on 
toast. 

Dainty  bits  of  roast  game,  fowl,  etc. ,  minced, 
warmed  over,  and  served  on  toast  are  excellent, 


32  TO    TEST    EGGS. 

and  show  a  way  of  using  good  material  that 
would  otherwise  be  wasted. 


EGGS  AND   OMELETS. 

To  Test  Eggs.— Dissolve  an  ounce  of  salt 
in  ten  ounces  of  water  ;  add  the  eggs.  Good 
ones  will  sink,  indifferent  eggs  will  swim,  and 
bad  eggs  will  float,  even  in  pure  water. 

Fresh  eggs  are  more  transparent  in  the  centre. 

Old  eggs  are  transparent  at  the  top. 

Eggs  may  be  kept  a  long  time  by  covering 
them  with  beeswax  dissolved  in  warm  olive  or 
cotton -seed  oil.  Use  one  third  wax  to  two 
thirds  oil. 

Baked  Eggs.— Mince  half  a  pound  of  lean 
boiled  ham,  add  an  equal  quantity  of  cracker 
crumbs.  Moisten  and  spread  the  mixture  over 
a  platter  ;  scoop  out  four  round  holes  as  large 
as  an  egg,  and  drop  an  egg  from  the  shell  into 
each  hole  ;  season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  but- 
ter ;  put  the  dish  in  the  oven,  and  serve  when 
the  eggs  are  cooked. 

The  crumbs  should  be  moist  enough  to  take 
almost  a  crust  when  baked. 

Omelets. — As  a  rule,  an  omelet  is  a  whole- 


OMELETS.  33 

some  and  inexpensive  dish,  yet  one  in  the  prep- 
aration of  which  cooks  frequently  fail,  owing  to 
carelessness  of  detail.  With  a  little  attention 
the  housewife  can  easily  become  the  perfect  cook 
in  this  branch,  as  well  as  others. 

The  flavoring  and  the  ingredients  used  may 
be  varied  indefinitely ;  but  the  principle  is 
always  the  same.  In  making  an  omelet  care 
should  be  taken  that  the  omelet  pan  is  hot  and 
dry.  To  insure  this,  put  a  small  quantity  of 
lard  into  the  pan  ;  let  it  simmer  a  few  minutes, 
and  remove  it  ;  wipe  the  pan  dry  with  a  towel, 
and  put  in  a  little  fresh  lard,  in  which  the  omelet 
may  be  fried.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the 
lard  does  not  burn,  as  it  would  spoil  the  color 
of  the  omelet. 

It  is  better  to  make  two  or  three  small  ome- 
lets than  one  very  large  one,  as  the  latter  cannot 
be  well  handled  by  a  novice. 

The  omelet  made  of  three  eggs  is  the  one 
recommended  for  beginners.  Break  the  eggs 
separately  ;  put  them  into  a  bowl,  and  whisk 
them  thoroughly  with  a  fork.  (The  longer  they 
are  beaten,  the  lighter  will  be  the  omelet.)  Add 
a  teaspoonful  of  milk,  and  beat  up  with  the 
eggs  ;  beat  until  the  last  moment  before  pour- 
ing into  the  pan,  which  should  be  over  a  hot 
fire.  As  soon  as  the  omelet  sets,  remove  the 


34  CHEESE    OMELET. 

pan  from  the  hottest  part  of  the  fire,  slip  a  knife 
under  it  to  prevent  sticking  to  the  pan  ;  when 
the  centre  is  almost  firm,  slant  the  pan  ;  work 
the  omelet  in  shape  to  fold  easily  and  neatly  ; 
and,  when  slightly  browned,  hold  a  platter 
against  the  edge  of  the  pan,  and  deftly  turn  it 
out  upon  the  hot  dish. 

Salt  mixed  with  the  eggs  prevents  them  from 
rising,  and  when  used  the  omelet  will  look 
flabby  ;  yet  without  salt  it  will  taste  insipid. 
Add  a  little  salt  to  it  just  before  folding  it  and 
turning  out  on  the  dish. 

Cheese  Omelet.— Beat  up  the  eggs  and  add 
to  them  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  Parmesan 
cheese  ;  add  a  little  more  cheese  before  folding, 
and  turn  out  on  a  hot  dish.  Grate  a  little 
cheese  over  it  before  serving. 

Omelet  with  Herbs.— Beat  up  three  eggs 
and  add  to  them  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  pars- 
ley, mixed  with  a  few  chives.  Pour  into  the 
pan,  and  before  folding  season  with  salt  and 
pepper  ;  fold,  and  turn  out  on  a  hot  dish. 

Onion  Omelet.— Cut  up  a  small  Spanish 
onion  ;  fry  it  a  light  brown  ;  before  folding  the 
omelet  add  the  onion,  and  turn  out  on  a  hot 
dish. 

Oyster  Omelet.— Stew  six  oysters  in  their 
own  liquor  for  five  minutes  ;  remove  the  oysters, 


OMELET    AU    RHUM.  35 

and  thicken  the  liquid  with  a  walnut  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour  ;  season  with  salt  and  cayenne  ; 
whisk  this  to  a  cream.  Chop  the  oysters,  and 
add  them  to  the  sauce  ;  simmer  until  the  sauce 
thickens.  Beat  up  four  eggs  lightly,  and  add  a 
tablespoonful  of  cream  ;  turn  out  into  a  hot 
pan,  and  fry  a  light  gold  color.  Before  folding 
the  omelet  entirely,  place  the  oysters  with  part 
of  the  sauce  within,  and  turn  it  over  on  a  hot 
dish.  The  remainder  of  the  sauce  should  be 
poured  round  it. 

Omelet  au  Rhum.— Prepare  an  omelet  as 
has  been  directed,  fold  it,  and  turn  out  on  a 
hot  dish  ;  dust  a  liberal  quantity  of  powdered 
sugar  over  it,  and  singe  the  sugar  into  neat 
stripes  with  a  hot  iron  rod,  heated  on  the  coals. 
Pour  a  wine-glassful  of  warmed  Jamaica  rum 
around  it,  and  wiien  on  the  table  set  fire  to  it 
With  a  tablespoon  dash  the  burning  rum  over 
the  omelet,  blow  out  the  fire,  and  serve. 

Spanish  Omelet.— Chop  up  half  of  a  sweet 
Spanish  pepper  ;  peel  and  cut  up  a  large  toma- 
to ;  cut  two  ounces  of  ham  into  dice  ;  mince 
three  button  mushrooms  and  half  an  onion  with 
a  clove  of  garlic  ;  season  with  salt,  cayenne,  and 
capers.  Put  the  onion  and  ham  in  a  pan,  and 
fry ;  add  the  other  ingredients,  and  simmer 
until  a  thick  pulp  ;  add  this  to  an  omelet  just 


36  SWEET    OMELET. 

before  folding  it  and  turning  out  on  a  dish. 
Pour  a  well-made  tomato  sauce  round  it,  and 
serve. 

The  ingredients  may  be  varied  to  suite  the 
taste. 

Sweet  Omelet.— Beat  up  the  eggs  as  usual, 
and,  just  before  it  is  folded  in  the  pan,  add  a 
heaping  tablespoonful  of  jelly,  preserves,  or 
other  ingredients  that  fancy  may  suggest. 


POTATOES. 

Potatoes.— Take  a  sound-looking  potato  of 
any  variety  ;  pay  but  little  attention  to  its  out- 
ward appearance  ;  cut  or  break  it  in  two,  cross- 
wise, and  examine  the  cut  surface.  If  it  appears 
watery  to  such  a  degree  that  a  slight  pressure 
would  cause  water  to  fall  off  in  drops,  reject  it, 
as  it  would  be  of  little  use  for  the  table.  A  good 
potato  should  be  of  a  light  cream-color,  and 
when  rubbed  together  a  white  froth  should  ap- 
pear round  the  edges  and  surface  of  the  cut, 
which  indicates  the  presence  of  starch.  The 
more  starch  in  the  potato,  the  more  it  will  froth  ; 
consequently  the  more  froth  on  the  potato  the 
better  it  will  be  when  cooked.  The  strength  of 


BOILED    POTATOES.  37 

its  starchy  properties  may  be  tested  by  releasing 
the  hold  of  one  end,  and  if  it  clings  to  the 
other,  the  potato  is  a  good  one.  These  are  the 
general  principles  followed  by  potato-buyers, 
and  they  are  usually  to  be  fully  relied  upon. 
About  one  seventh  part  of  the  potato  is  nutri- 
tious, and  this  is  chiefly  farinaceous,  and  is  ac- 
companied by  no  inconsiderable  portion  of  saline 
matter,  more  especially  of  potassa,  which  renders 
it  highly  antiscorbutic,  and  a  powerful  corrective 
of  the  grossness  of  animal  food.  When  form- 
ing part  of  a  mixed  diet,  no  substance  is  more 
wholesome  than  the  potato.  Even  the  wild 
potato  found  in  the  Yellowstone  Country  is 
thought  one  of  the  best  of  edible  wild  roots. 

Boiled  Potatoes.— To  retain  the  highest 
amount  of  nourishment,  potatoes  should  be 
boiled  with  their  skins  on.  When  so  treated, 
they  are  twice  as  rich  in  potassa  salts  as  those 
which  have  first  been  peeled.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  place  them  in  the  oven  or  on  top  of  the 
range  after  boiling  them,  thereby  allowing  all 
surplus  moisture  to  escape.  Before  sending  to 
table  they  should  be  peeled,  and,  if  convenient, 
thoroughly  mashed,  as  they  are  more  easily 
digested,  and  when  they  are  lumpy  or  watery 
they  escape  proper  mastication,  and  in  this  way 
cause  serious  derangement  of  the  system.  Un- 


38  LYONNAISE    POTATOES. 

der  no  circumstances  allow  the  aged,  dyspeptic, 
or  those  in  delicate  health  to  eat  them  except 
when  mashed.  The  so-called  potato  "with  a 
bone  in  it,"  a  favorite  dish  of  the  Irish  peasant, 
is  a  potato  only  half  cooked,  being  raw  in  the 
centre  ;  and  a  more  indigestible  thing  cannot 
well  be  imagined. 

Lyonnaise  Potatoes.— The  same  as  sau- 
teed,  except  that  a  little  onion  is  fried  brown 
and  the  potato  then  added. 

Potatoes  au  Cochon.— Slice  two  hot, 
mealy  potatoes  ;  cut  the  slices  into  squares  ; 
put  them  in  a  saucepan,  and  add  scalded  cream 
enough  to  cover  them,  salt,  and  white  pepper. 
Cut  into  very  small  pieces  half  an  ounce  of  fat, 
boiled,  salt  pork  ;  add  a  tablespoonful  to  the 
potato  ;  simmer  until  thoroughly  blended  to- 
gether ;  pour  the  contents  of  the  dish  into  a 
small  au  gratin  dish  (or  vegetable  baker)  ;  grate 
a  little  Parmesan  cheese  over  it  ;  add  a  small  bit 
of  butter ;  place  in  the  oven  a  moment  to 
brown,  and  serve  in  the  same  dish. 

Potatoes  au  G-ratin.— Nearly  fill  the  gratin 
pan  with  hot  boiled  potatoes,  cut  into  small 
pieces  ;  cover  with  milk  ;  strew  over  them  grated 
cheese  or  part  cheese  and  grated  crumbs  ;  add  a 
little  butter,  and  bake  brown  in  a  quick  oven. 

Potatoes  Saut6ed  are  cold  boiled  potatoes 


ARTICHOKES    (FRENCH).  39 

.cut  into  small  slices  and  slightly  browned  in  a 
frying-pan,  shaped,  and  turned  out  on  a  hot 
dish  (as  you  would  an  omelet),  and  seasoned 
with  parsley,  salt,  and  pepper. 


DAINTY   DISHES. 

Artichokes  (French).— Trim  the  ends  ;  re- 
move the  choke,  and  quarter  each  artichoke  ; 
pour  boiling  water  over  them,  and  drain.  Put 
them  in  a  stewpan,  and  to  each  artichoke  add  a 
gill  of  white  wine  and  one  of  clear  soup  ;  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  lemon -peel  ;  when 
done,  remove  the  artichoke,  and  boil  the  sauce 
down.  Cream  an  ounce  of  butter  ;  add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  by  degrees  add  the 
sauce  ;  simmer  until  thick,  and  send  to  table 
with  the  artichokes. 

Artichokes  (French),  Fried.— Wash  and 
cut  away  the  leaves  of  two  artichokes  ;  remove 
the  inside  choke  ;  cut  the  bottoms  into  neat 
pieces,  and  cover  them  with  water  containing 
one  third  vinegar.  Drain  ;  season  with  salt 
and  pepper  ;  dip  them  in  beaten  egg  ;  roll  them 
in  fine  cracker  dust,  and  fry  in  plenty  of  hot 
fat. 


40  CHICKEN    CROQUETTES. 

Chicken  Croquettes.— Cut  up  the  white 
meat  of  one  cold  boiled  chicken,  and  pound  it 
to  a  paste  with  a  large  boiled  sweetbread,  freed 
from  sinews  ;  add  salt  and  pepper.  Beat  up 
one  egg  with  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  and  a  wine- 
glassful  of  rich  cream.  Mix  all  together  ;  put 
it  in  a  pan,  and  simmer  just  enough  to  absorb 
part  of  the  moisture,  stirring  all  the  time ;  turn 
it  out  on  a  flat  dish,  and  place  in  ice-box  to  be- 
come cold  and  firm  ;  then  ro.ll  it  into  small  neat 
cones  ;  dip  them  in  beaten  eggs  ;  roll  in  finely 
powdered  bread  crumbs  ;  drop  them  in  boiling 
fat,  and  fry  a  delicate  brown.  Handle  them 
carefully. 

Some  add  a  little  nutmeg,  but  I  have  found 
the  above  recipe  more  satisfactory  without  it, 
especially  among  my  Philadelphia  patrons. 

Chicken,  Devilled.— Prepare  a  mixture  of 
mustard,  pepper,  and  salt,  moistened  with  a  little 
oil.  Put  a  small  quantity  of  oil  in  a  frying- 
pan  ;  add  just  onion  enough  to  give  it  flavor, 
and  toss  the  chicken  about  in  this  a  moment. 
Remove  ;  rub  or  brush  the  moisture  over  the 
chicken,  and  broil.  Serve  with  a  sharp,  pun- 
gent sauce,  made  of  drawn  butter,  lemon  juice, 
mustard,  and  chopped  capers. 

Chicken,  Fried.— Cut  up  half  an  onion, 
and  fry  it  brown  in  a  little  butter.  Divide  two 


CRABS,    SOFT-SHELL.  41 

ounces  of  butter  into  little  balls  ;  roll  them  in 
flour  ;  add  to  the  onion,  and  fry  the  breast  ot 
the  chicken  in  this,  as  well  as  the  legs  and  side- 
bones,  to  a  delicate  brown.  Take  them  out, 
and  add  to  the  sauce  a  few  cut-up  mushrooms, 
a  gill  of  claret,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  piece  of  cut 
sugar  ;  simmer  slowly  ;  pour  over  the  chicken 
and  serve. 

The  Southern  way  of  frying  chicken  is  as  fol- 
lows :  Slice  and  cut  into  small  dice  half  a  pound 
of  salt  pork  ;  flour  the  chicken,  and  fry  in  the 
pork  fat ;  dissolve  a  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
flour  with  a  little  cold  milk  ;  add  to  it  gradually 
half  a  pint  of  boiled  milk  that  has  been  seasoned 
with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt ;  simmer  until 
thick  ;  arrange  the  chicken  on  a  hot  dish,  and 
pour  the  sauce  round  it.  Toast  may  be  placed 
under  the  chicken,  if  desired. 

Crabs,  Soft-shell.— These  should  be  cooked 
as  soon  as  possible  after  being  caught,  as  their 
flavor  rapidly  deteriorates  after  being  exposed  to 
the  air.  Select  crabs  as  lively  as  possible  ;  re- 
move the  feathery  substance  under  the  pointed 
sides  of  the  shells  ;  rinse  them  in  cold  water  ; 
drain  ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper ;  dredge 
them  in  flour,  and  fry  in  hot  fat. 

Many  serve  them  rolled  in  eggs  and  cracker 
dust ;  but  thus  they  are  not  as  good. 


42  FILET    OF    SOLE,    SAUCE    TARTARE. 

Filet  of  Sole,  Sauce  Tartare.— Remove 
the  head,  fins,  tail,  and  skin  from  a  medium- 
sized  flounder  ;  lay  the  fish  flat  on  the  table, 
and  with  a  sharp  knife  make  a  deep  cut  through 
to  the  back-bone  the  whole  length  of  the  fish. 
Cut  the  upper  side  lengthwise  from  the  bone  ; 
now  remove  the  bone  from  the  lower  part,  and 
cut  the  fish  into  pieces  crosswise,  each  piece  to 
be  about  two  inches  in  width.  Season  each 
piece  ;  noil  it  up  and  tie  it  with  strong  thread  ; 
dredge  them  in  flour,  and  fry  in  plenty  of  hot 
fat  (they  may  be  dipped  in  egg  batter  and  rolled 
in  bread  crumb  if  liked)  ;  remove  the  thread  ; 
arrange  them  neatly  on  a  hot  dish  ;  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  send  to  table  with  sauce  tartar e 
(which  see). 

Hamburg  Steak,  Sauce  Piquante.— Se- 
lect a  thick  rump  steak,  and  with  a  stiff-backed 
kitchen  knife  scrape  away  the  lean  meat  from 
the  sinews.  Season  the  meat  with  salt  and  cay- 
enne, and  shape  it  into  a  round  form  slightly 
flattened  on  top.  Fry  a  minced  onion  brown  in 
butter  ;  cook  the  steak  in  this,  on  both  sides, 
and  serve  with  the  following  sauce  :  put  into  the 
same  saucepan  half  a  pint  of  strong  soup  stock, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  browned  flour,  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
eschalot,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  half 


HOMINY    FRITTERS.  43 

a  saltspoonful  of  black  pepper,  and  a  little  salt 
Simmer,  strain,  and  serve. 

Many  like  a  Hamburg  steak  rare,  while  others 
prefer  it  well  done  ;  others  there  are  who  think 
they  like  it  rare,  highly  seasoned  with  onion  and 
other  pungent  seasoning. 

Hominy  Fritters.— Take  one  pint  of  boiled 
hominy,  one  gill  of  cream,  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  corn-starch,  two  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
baking  powder,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt ;  mix  to  a 
batter.  If  too  stiff,  add  a  little  more  cream. 
Drop  the  batter  in  large  spoonfuls  into  hot  fat, 
and  fry  brown. 

Kidney,  Saut^ed.— Cut  up  half  an  onion  ; 
brown  it  in  a  pan  with  an  ounce  of  butter. 
Slice  a  calf  s  kidneys  ;  toss  about  over  a  slow 
fire  in  the  pan  ;  add  salt  and  pepper,  a  pint  of 
red  or  white  wine,  and  one  piece  of  cut  sugar. 
Simmer  until  tender  ;  dissolve  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour  in  cold  water  ;  add  to  the  dish.  Toast  a 
few  slices  of  bread  ;  trim  them  neatly  ;  place 
them  on  a  dish  ;  pour  the  kidneys  over  them, 
and  serve. 

A  few  mushrooms  cut  up  and  strewn  over  the 
dish  will  be  appreciated  by  many. 

Lamb  Chops  with  French  Peas.— 
Dainty  lamb  chops  require  but  a  moment's 
cooking,  and,  unless  care  be  taken,  will  dry 


44     MINCED    TURKEY  WITH    POACHED  EGGS. 

quickly  over  the  fire  ;  they  should  be  turned 
repeatedly,  and,  when  done,  seasoned  with  pep- 
per, salt,  and  the  sweetest  of  sweet  butter. 

Arrange  a  mound  of  peas  in  the  centre  of  a 
dish  ;  place  the  chops  around  this,  and  serve. 
The  peas  should  be  cooked  as  follows  :  Open  a 
small  can  of  imported  peas ;  drain  off  the 
liquid  ;  melt  an  ounce  of  butter  in  a  pan,  and 
when  it  creams,  add  the  peas  :  shake  the  pan  to 
prevent  burning  ;  add  pepper  and  salt.  When 
the  peas  are  heated  through  they  require  no 
longer  cooking,  and  should  be  served  at  once. 

The  great  mistake  made  by  many  cooks  in 
cooking  canned  peas  is  that  they  allow  them  to 
remain  too  long  on  the  fire,  which  spoils  them, 
as  they  are  already  cooked,  and  simply  require 
heating. 

Minced  Turkey  with  Poached  Eggs.— 
A  very  appetizing  dish  is  made  of  cold  boiled  or 
roast  turkey.  Trim  off  all  skin  and  most  of  the 
fat,  especially  on  the  back  ;  pick  out  the  little 
tid-bits  in  the  recesses  ;  cut  off  all  that  will  not 
look  neat  when  sliced  cold.  Season  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  a  tablespoonful  or  two  of 
minced  celery  ;  chop  up  the  meat  ;  put  it  in  a 
pan  with  a  little  butter  or  turkey  fat,  to  prevent 
burning,  and  just  a  suspicion  of  onion  ;  moisten 
with  a  little  broth  made  from  the  turkey  bones. 


MUSHROOMS    ON    TOAST.  45 

Poach  one  or  two  eggs  for  each  person  ;  arrange 
the  minced  meat  neatly  on  slices  of  buttered 
toast ;  place  the  egg  on  top,  and  serve. 

The  above  mode  of  preparing  a  breakfast  dish 
is  not  only  economical,  but  is  one  of  the  most 
delightful  dishes  that  can  be  produced  ;  almost 
any  kind  of  boiled  or  roast  meat,  poultry,  or 
game  can  be  utilized  in  this  way. 

Mushrooms  on  Toast.— Peel  a  quart  of 
mushrooms  ;  cut  off  a  little  of  the  root  end  ; 
now  take  half  a  pound  of  round  steak,  and  cut 
it  up  fine  and  fry  it  in  a  pan  with  a  little  butter, 
to  extract  the  juice,  which,  being  done,  remove 
the  pieces  of  steak.  When  the  gravy  is  very  hot 
add  the  mushrooms  ;  toss  them  about  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  pour  the  contents  of  the  pan  on  but- 
tered toast ;  season  with  salt  and  cayenne. 
Some  add  a  little  sherry  to  the  dish  before  re- 
moving from  the  range. 

Mutton  Chops  with  Fried  Tomatoes 
and  Sauce.— Select  four  nice  rib  chops  ;  have 
them  trimmed  neatly  by  the  dealer  ;  take  hold 
of  the  end  of  the  rib,  and  dip  the  chops  a  mo- 
ment in  hot  fat,  in  which  you  are  to  fry  them  ; 
now  roll  them  in  fine  cracker  crumbs,  and  shake 
off  the  surplus  ;  dip  them  in  egg,  again  in  the 
crumbs,  and  drop  them  into  boiling  fat.  Re- 
move when  brown. 


46  FRIED    TOMATOES. 

Fried  Tomatoes.— Select  three  smooth, 
medium-sized,  well-filled  tomatoes ;  cut  into 
slices  half  an  inch  thick  ;  dredge  them  with 
flour  or  roll  in  egg  and  crumbs,  and  fry  (or, 
rather,  sautee)  in  a  small  quantity  of  hot  fat, 
turning  and  cooking  both  sides  evenly.  Have 
prepared  the  following  sauce  :  Add  to  a  pint  of 
milk  a  tablespoonful  of  flour,  one  beaten  egg, 
salt,  pepper,  and  a  very  little  mace.  Cream  an 
ounce  of  butter  ;  whisk  into  it  the  milk,  and  let 
it  simmer  until  it  thickens  ;  pour  the  sauce  on 
a  hot  side  dish  ;  arrange  the  tomatoes  in  the 
centre,  and  add  the  chops  opposite  each  other, 
and  serve. 

Plain  broiled  or  papered  chops  may  be  served 
in  this  way. 

Oysters,  Broiled.— Rub  the  bars  of  a  wire 
broiler  with  a  little  sweet  butter  ;  dry  twelve 
large,  plump  oysters  in  a  napkin,  and  place 
them  on  the  broiler  ;  brush  a  little  butter  over 
them,  and  broil  over  a  fire  free  from  flame  and 
smoke.  When  done  on  both  sides,  arrange 
them  neatly  on  toast ;  pour  a  little  well-seasoned 
melted  butter  over  them,  and  serve. 

Do  not  bread-crumb  oysters  intended  for 
broiling. 

Pork  and  Beans.— To  call  this  homely 
Yankee  dish  a  "  dainty"  may  surprise  many  ; 


PORK    AND    BEANS.  47 

but,  when  properly  prepared,  it  may  well  be 
called  so. 

Wash  a  quart  of  small  white  beans  in  cold 
water  ;  pick  them  over  while  in  the  water  ;  re- 
ject all  imperfect  beans  ;  drain  ;  cover  with  fresh 
cold  water,  and  let  them  soak  over  night.  Next 
morning  change  the  water  twice  ;  then  put  them 
in  a  large  iron  pot ;  add  a  liberal  quantity  of 
cold  water,  and  simmer  them  slowly  for  four 
hours.  Pour  them  into  a  colander  carefully  to 
drain.  Heat  an  old-fashioned  beanpot  with  hot 
water,  and  wipe  it  dry  ;  place  a  small  piece  of 
pork  in  the  pot,  and  add  the  beans  to  within  two 
inches  of  the  top  ;  now  place  a  small  piece  of 
pork  (properly  scored  on  its  rind)  on  the  beans. 
Dissolve  a  tablespoonful  of  black  molasses  in  a 
pint  of  warm  water  ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt  and  a  few  drops  of  Worcestershire  sauce, 
and  pour  this  over  the  beans  ;  place  the  pot  in 
a  moderate  oven,  and  bake  for  three  hours,  at 
the  end  of  which  time  take  them  out,  and 
add  a  little  more  warm  water,  to  prevent 
them  from  becoming  too  dry.  Bake  for  three 
hours  longer,  and  serve  with  hot  Boston  brown 
bread. 

The  old-fashioned  manner  of  preparing  this 
dish  was  to  place  all  the  pork  on  top,  the  result 
being  that  the  first  few  spoonfuls  of  beans  con- 


48  REED    BIRDS. 

tained  all  the  pork  fat,  while  the  remainder  had 
not  been  seasoned  by  it. 

The  above  recipe  distributes  the  pork  fat 
evenly  through  the  beans,  as  it  is  lighter  than 
water,  and  naturally  rises  ;  and  for  this  reason 
only  half  the  usual  quantity  of  pork  is  required 
to  produce  the  desired  result. 

Reed  Birds.— The  average  French  cook 
cannot  understand  why  these  "  lumps  of  sweet- 
ness' '  do  not  require  long  cooking  and  elaborate 
sauces  to  make  them  palatable,  and  these  cooks 
invariably  spoil  them.  Pluck  and  draw  the 
birds,  leaving  the  heads  on.  Put  into  a  frying- 
pan  an  ounce  of  sweet  butter  ;  when  hot,  add 
six  birds  ;  toss  them  about  to  cook  evenly  ;  add 
a  little  salt  and  pepper  ;  let  them  remain  over 
the  fire  for  about  three  minutes,  and  serve  on  a 
hot  dish. 

To  cook  them  in  large  quantities,  as  they  are 
prepared  by  the  gunners  at  their  club-houses 
along  the  Delaware,  proceed  as  follows  :  Clean 
them  properly  :  arrange  them  in  a  baking-tin  ; 
add  a  liberal  quantity  of  butter,  salt,  and  pep- 
per ;  put  the  pan  in  the  oven.  At  the  end  of 
five  minutes  turn  them  with  a  long-handled 
spoon,  let  them  cook  five  minutes  longer,  and 
serve. 

An  excellent  way  to  serve  them  at  late  break- 


SALT    CODFISH,    BROILED.  49 

fast-parties  is  as  follows  :  Pluck  and  draw  the 
birds,  and  remove  their  heads.  Take  a  few 
large  long  potatoes  ;  cut  them  in  two  cross- 
wise ;  scrape  out  part  of  the  inside  ;  place  a 
bird  in  each  half  of  potato  ;  press  the  halves  to- 
gether, tie  them  with  twine,  and  bake  until  the 
potatoes  are  done.  Remove  the  common  twine 
and  tie  them  up  again  with  narrow  tape  or  rib- 
bon. Send  to  table  on  a  napkin. 

Salt  Codfish,  Broiled.— Cut  from  a  medi- 
um-sized salt  codfish  three  pieces  about  two 
inches  square  ;  split  each  piece  in  two,  and  soak 
in  water  over  night ;  change  the  water  two  or 
three  times.  Next  morning  rinse  the  pieces  in 
fresh  cold  water,  and  drain  and  dry  in  a  napkin  ; 
brush  a  little  butter  over  each,  and  broil. 
When  done,  pour  over  them  melted  butter  sea- 
soned with  pepper  and  lemon  juice. 

Sardines,  Broiled.— Open  a  can  of  sar- 
dines, and  remove  the  fish  without  breaking 
them  ;  scrape  off  the  skin  and  split  them,  if 
large  ;  put  them  between  a  double  wire  broiler, 
and  broil  both  sides  nicely.  Squeeze  a  little 
lemon  and  orange  juice  over  them  before  serv- 
ing. 

Sauce  Tartare.— Chop  together  one  small 
pickle,  a  dozen  capeis,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley and  a  very  small  piece  of  onion  ;  to  these 


50  SAUSAGES. 

add  half  a  pint  of  Mayonnaise  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  French  mustard. 

Sausages. — A  disagreeable  feature  of  sau- 
sages, when  cooked  in  the  ordinary  manner,  is 
that  the  spattering  fat  covers  the  range,  and  the 
ascending  smoke  pervades  the  whole  house. 
This  may  be  avoided  by  putting  them  in  a  bak- 
ing-pan and  cooking  them  in  the  oven.  Ten 
minutes  is  sufficient  to  cook  a  pound  of  country 
sausages,  provided  the  oven  be  quite  hot.  They 
are  excellent  when  split  in  two  and  broiled  ; 
serve  hot  or  cold  apple  sauce  with  them.  Apple 
fritters  also  are  acceptable  with  sausages. 

Smelts,  Broiled.— Clean  thoroughly  six 
medium-sized  smelts ;  split  them  down  the 
back  ;  rub  a  little  oil  over  them  ;  place  them 
on  a  double  broiler,  and  broil.  When  done, 
serve  with  sauce  iariare  (which  see). 

Smelts,  Fried.  —  Thoroughly  clean  the 
smelts,  leaving  the  heads  on  ;  dip  them  in 
beaten  egg  ;  roll  them  in  fine  cracker  dust,  and 
fry  in  very  hot  fat ;  garnish  with  parsley  and 
lemons,  quartered,  and  send  to  table  with  sauce 
tar  tare  (which  see). 

Squabs  are  very  nice  broiled,  but  are  at 
their  best  served  as  follows  ; — Select  a  pair  of 
plump  birds  ;  clean  them,  cut  off  the  legs,  and 
remove  the  heads  without  breaking  or  tearing 


STEAK,  TENDERLOIN;  SAUCE  BEARNAISE.  51 

the  neck  skin  ;  insert  the  forefinger  in  it,  and 
separate  the  skin  over  the  breast  from  the  flesh  ; 
fill  this  with  a  nicely-seasoned  bread  stuffing,  and 
fasten  the  loose  end  of  the  neck  to  the  back. 
Place  a  thin  wide  slice  of  bacon  over  the  breast, 
and  fasten  the  ends  with  wooden  toothpicks  ; 
put  them  in  a  pan  ;  dredge  with  a  little  flour, 
and  bake  to  a  delicate  brown  ;  serve  with  fresh 
green  peas. 

Spring  chicken  may  be  treated  in  the  same  way. 

Steak,  Tenderloin ;  Sauce  Bearnaise.— 
Cut  a  thick  steak  off  the  large  end  of  a  beef  ten- 
derloin ;  flatten  it  out  a  little  ;  rub  olive-oil  or 
butter  over  it,  and  broil  over  a  charcoal  fire  ; 
place  it  on  a  hot  dish,  add  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  and  serve  with  sauce  Bearnaise. 

Sauce  Bearnaise.— Reduce  a  gallon  of 
strong,  clear  soup  to  a  quart  by  constant  boiling. 
Beat  up  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  ;  pour  them  into 
a  buttered  saucepan,  and  add  gradually — whisk- 
ing all  the  time — the  reduced  soup,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  strong  garlic  vinegar  (or,  if  preferred, 
plain  vinegar,  and  the  expressed  juice  of  garlic  or 
shallots),  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little  lemon  juice. 
Stir  with  a  wooden  spoon. 

Care  must  be  exercised  not  to  add  the  soup 
while  hot  to  the  eggs,  or  it  will  curdle,  and  yet 
do  not  add  it  cold. 


52      STEAK,    SIRLOIN  ;    SAUCE    BORDELAISE. 

Steak,  Sirloin;  Sauce  Bordelaise.— Se- 
lect  a  steak  cut  from  the  best  part  of  the  sirloin  ; 
trim  it  neatly  ;  rub  a  little  oil  over  it,  and  broil 
over  a  charcoal  fire  ;  serve  with  the  following 
sauce  : 

Sauce  Bordelaise  is  easiest  made  as  fol- 
lows :  Chop  up  one  medium  onion,  or,  better 
still,  two  shallots  ;  fry  them  in  butter  until 
brown  ;  add  a  pint  of  strong  clear  soup  or  beef 
gravy,  half  a  pint  of  claret  or  white  wine,  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley ; 
simmer,  and  if  not  quite  thick  enough  add  a 
little  browned  flour. 

Tomato  Sauce.— Open  a  can  of  Baldwin 
tomatoes,  which  contain  but  little  liquid  ;  sim- 
mer them  gently  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour  ; 
season  with  salt,  cayenne,  *  a  clove  of  garlic, 
bruised,  and  very  little  mace.  Press  them 
through  a  fine  sieve  ;  put  the  pulp  in  a  clean, 
hot  stewpan,  with  a  little  butter  ;  stir  to  prevent 
burning,  and,  when  quite  thick,  serve. 

A  most  excellent  tomato  sauce  is  made  of  a 
brilliant  red  ketchup,  known  to  dealers  under 
the  name  of  "Connoisseur  Ketchup/'  Take 
half  a  pint  of  it ;  heat  it  gently  ;  add  a  gill  of 
rich  soup-stock  and  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  dis- 
solved in  a  little  cold  water ;  simmer  until  it 
thickens,  and  serve. 


TRIPE    WITH    OYSTERS.  53 

Ordinary  ketchups  do  not  have  the  proper 
color,  and  are  likely  to  sour  when  heated. 

Tripe  with  Oysters.— Tripe,  when  prop- 
erly prepared  by  a  simple  process,  is  very  nutri- 
tious and  easily  digested. 

Cut  up  half  a  pound  of  well-washed  tripe  ; 
simmer  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour  in  water 
slightly  salted  ;  take  out  the  tripe  ;  add  to  the 
broth  a  little  butter  rolled  in  flour,  salt,  and  pep- 
per ;  add  a  little  more  flour  if  not  thick  enough. 
Return  the  tripe  and  a  dozen  oysters  ;  simmer 
for  a  few  minutes  longer,  and  serve. 

Tripe  Lyonnaise.— Cut  up  half  a  pound  of 
cold  boiled  tripe  into  neat  squares.  Put  two 
ounces  of  butter  and  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
onion  in  a  pan,  and  fry  to  a  delicate  brown  ; 
add  the  tripe,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
one  of  strong  vinegar,  salt,  and  cayenne  ;  stir 
the  pan  to  prevent  burning.  When  done,  cover 
the  bottom  of  a  hot  dish  with  tomato  sauce,  add 
the  contents  of  the  pan  to  it,  and  serve. 

Veal  Cutlet,  Sauce  Robert.— Select  two 
medium-sized  veal  steaks,  or  cut  one  large  one 
in  two  ;  dip  in  beaten  egg  ;  roll  in  bread 
crumbs,  and  fry  very  well  done  in  the  hottest  of 
hot  fat ;  serve  with  sauce  Robert,  made  as  fol- 
lows ; — Fry  a  small  onion  brown  ;  add  to  it  a  gill 
each  of  clear  soup  and  white  wine  ;  simmer  until 


54  VEAL    CUTLET,    SAUCE    ROBERT. 

brown  ;  strain  ;  return  to  the  pan,  and  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  browned  flour,  and  a  tablespoonful  of 
French  mustard. 

Cutlets  or  veal  chops,  broiled,  may  also  be 
served  with  this  sauce. 


COOKERY    BOOKS. 

By  THOMAS  J.  MURREY,  formerly  professional 
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Hotel,  Philadelphia  ;  and  other  leading  hotels. 


FIFTY  SOUPS. 

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herbs,  etc. 

"  A  practical  chef,  Mr.  Murrey  brings  to  his  volume  the  experi- 
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recipes  are  those  which  have  made  the  reputation  of  several  famous 
restauran ts . " — Domestic  Monthly. 

BREAKFAST  DAINTIES. 

With  many  valuable  hints  and  directions  concerning  breakfast 
breads,  fruits,  beverages  and  dainty  dishes.  Mr.  Murrey's 
own  recipes. 

Each  one  of  the  above  is  attractively  printed  on  fine  laid 
paper.  Covers  in  colors,  with  original  design,  l6mo.t 
boards,  50  cts. 

Cloth,  design  in  gold  and  color,  -  75  cts. 


VALUABLE  COOKING  RECIPES. 

A  large  collection  of  economical  recipes  personally  tested  by 
Mr.  Murrey,  forming  a  cook  book  of  the  best  character. 

\2rno. ,  128  pages,    cloth,    neat  stamping  in  gold  and 
color,  75  cts. 

Any  of  these  books  can  be  had,  of  your  bookseller,  or  will  be 
sent  free  to  any  address  at  publishers'  expense,  on  receipt  of 
advertised  price. 

WHITE,     STOKES,     &    ALLEN, 

PUBLISHERS, 
182  Fifth  Avenue,  New  York  City. 


LIBRARY  USE 

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